Iguazu Falls Argentina

One of the must see in South America are these great falls at the borders of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay.  The Iguazu Falls (Iguazú Falls, Iguassu Falls, or Iguaçu Falls) are the largest waterfalls system in the world.  (25°41′12″S 54°26′41″W)  The falls divide the river into the upper and lower Iguazu.  The Iguazu River rises near the city of Curitiba.  For most of its course, the river flows West through Brazil; however, most of the falls are on the Argentine side.  Below its confluence with the San Antonio River, the Iguazu River forms the boundary between Argentina and Brazil, and empties in to Parana River.  (See Iguassu Falls Photos )

Numerous islands along the 1.7 mile edge divide the falls into many separate waterfalls and cataracts, varying between 197 and 269 ft high.  The number of these smaller waterfalls fluctuates from 150 to 300, depending on the water level.  About half of the river's flow falls into a long and narrow chasm called the Devil's Throat.  The Devil's Throat is U-shaped and 269 ft high × 492 ft wide × 2,297 ft long.  Place names have been given to many other smaller falls, such as San Martín Falls and Bossetti Falls.






Our flight path to Antarctica was going to take us to Argentina - first to Buenos Aires in the middle of the country and then to Ushuaia all the way down to the bottom of the country Argentina, the continent South America and to the closest departure point to Antarctica.  For US citizens, entry to Argentina is free (Canadians have to pay $90 reciprocity fee.), whereas Brazil visa costs $130 by mailing your passport the old fashioned way.  Alternatively, at the Iguassu border, Brazil visa could be obtained in one business day, but we were there only on Sat-Sun, so that option did not exist either.  I had read stories about people getting on the bus to Brazil and quietly going to the other side, but we couldn't find anyone to support that theory.  Instead, we decided to spend both days visiting Iguassu Falls from the Argentina side - the first day being rainy and cloudy and the second absolutely clear and sunny.  The same falls looked so different on those two days.

Rainy season begins in December and early in the season, the water flows are so strong that the falls are shrouded in the mist and sometimes can't even be seen.  On the other hand, during the dry season, water flows are low and the majesty of the falls is lost.  Well, since our dates were fixed already, we were prepared for whatever we get to see.  

The forecast for the week was:


That worked out well.  We were reaching Buenos Aires (EZE) on Fri the 17th am and flying to Iguazu (IGR) that evening.  It would be clearing the next day and sunny on Sunday.  With the rains for the past few days, there was a lot of water for the Falls (though the wet season was yet to begin.) The water had a lot of silt and looked brown - not white as the falls look in posters and pictures.

The Iguazu Falls resemble a reversed letter "J". The border between Brazil and Argentina runs through the Devil's Throat at the round part of "J."  On the right bank is the Brazilian territory, which has just over 20% of the falls, and the Argentine side makes up almost 80% of the falls.

The Argentine side had 8 km trails, which are very well maintained, and marked.  The only missing info is how many steps you need to climb up or down along the way.  Also, if some trail is closed, you find out only when you reach the entry point (Due to heavy rains the previous few days, access to San Martin Island was closed.)  Included in your entrance ticket is Rainforest Ecological Train (very similar to the one in Disneyland.) 

The train brings visitors to the entrance of Devil's Throat, as well as the upper and lower trails.  In reality, from the main station, frequent service brings you to the first stop, which is to upper and lower trails (Cataratas.)  You then get off and get back on the next train that will take you to Devil's Throat.  This service is less frequent   Frequencies are adjusted by expected crowds, days of the week and time of the day.

If there is a wait for the first train, it is best just to walk the short trail to Cataratas station.  From there, you have all 3 options.

One, Devil's Throat - a must see.  You are standing at the edge of the C shaped gorge (similar to viewing Niagara Falls from the Canadian side.)  The Paseo Garganta del Diablo, a 1 km-long (0.6 mi) trail, brings visitors directly over the falls of Devil's Throat, the highest and deepest of the falls.  Throughout the park, metal bridges take you right over the river to various vista points.  Even wheelchairs are able to reach most of the park except where steps are involved.  Trail goes parallel to the river banks - and railroad tracks - for the most part, but it is best to take the train from Cataratas to Devil's Throat station.  If you do walk the trails, you will be able to play with butterflies and coatis along the way.

Two, Upper Trails - as the name suggests, these provide you wonderful vistas of the falls from the top.  You are walking over the river streams, crossing the islands (all on metal bridges) and taking in views from different angles - right up to the edge of the falls.  There are few, if any, steps.

Three, Lower Trails - you climb down on ramps or steps to the lower levels of the falls where you can almost touch the water, definitely get sprayed, and hear the roaring water around you.  You can also go all the way down to the water and take a boat ride to San Martin (closed that day) or a 15 minute "get wet" experience on Gran Aventura speed boats - separate tickets, credit cards accepted. 
- For the boat ride, they give you a large waterproof sack to safe keep all your belongings - cameras, purses/wallets, even change of clothes.  You take the sack with you on the boat and back.  You may wear ponchos, but some were in their swim suits.  Boat ride is highly recommended.  Unlike Niagara Falls' Maid of the Mist, this one takes you in to the waterfall because there are no fallen rocks to worry about.


Which should you do?  All three - weather and time, and health/interest permitting.  Our first day (Saturday) began with a drizzle in the morning until we reached Devil's Throat, our first stop.  The rest of the day was cloudy with no sun.  The next day was absolutely clear and sunny.  We visited Devil's Throat and Upper Circuit again on Sunday - and that experience was completely different, as can be seen in our photos.

Only in Argentina
  • People clapped every time plane landed
  • People with kids get to bypass all lines everywhere
  • Kids run around and scream as if they are home. No one seemed to mind.
  • Otherwise, people and traffic are well behaved.

Tickets to Iguassu Falls National Park


Prices in Argentina
  • Argentina is probably the most expensive country in South America, and Buenos Aires most expensive city - on par with major cities around the world.  It appeared that their infrastructure is fairly well developed - at least in the touristy areas we visited.
  • Not long ago, ARS (Argentinian Peso) - which they routinely called Dollars and even used $ symbol when displaying prices - was around 3-4 per USD.  It is now 17.50 pesos per USD.  You'd then expect prices to be 4-6 times cheaper in USD now - Not so.  All prices, including public transportation, have been "adjusted" to what foreigners would consider reasonable.  For example, $15 for airport shuttles, $30 for a taxi,, even $4 for a bus ride to Iguassu Falls National Park.  In a restaurant, you'd pay $4 for 1.5 liter water bottle and $10-15 for a meal 
  • From IGR airport, fixed price taxis charge 500 pesos to anywhere in town about 10-12 miles away - no bargaining.  At the airport kiosk, credit cards are accepted, but otherwise, you need to pay cash.  On the return trip, we paid only 300.
  • Iguassu Falls National Park is in between - about 3 miles north of the airport and 2 miles within the park.
  • On the main highway from the town (Puerto Iguazu) express buses run every 20 minutes to the park (75 pesos)  Depending on the time of the day, buses could be crowded to capacity.  Most tourists are from Brazil (coming from north) or Buenos Aires (coming by bus.)  Local bus charges only 15 pesos.
  • Iguassu Falls are about 700 miles almost north of Buenos Aires.  to save money on airfare and hotels, it is possible to take luxury buses overnight, visit the park during the day and return by another overnight bus back to Buenos Aires.
  • Bargaining is possible, and at times expected.
  • To visit Iguassu Falls, general entry is 500 pesos in cash.  If you get your ticket stamped before exiting, you can visit next day for half price.  For locals and other surrounding countries prices are lower.

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