Highlights of Argentina and Antarctica

Excursions to the surrounding wilderness and Antarctica begin either at Punta Arenas or Ushuaia.  Punta Arenas is a city near the tip of Chile's southernmost Patagonia region, about 150 miles northwest of Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost town in South America and therefore, the world.  

Our trip will be almost entirely in Argentina, except possibly Puerto Williams, Chile as a technical stop.  Primary port of entry to Argentina is Buenos Aires.  From there, Ushuaia (USH) is 1459 miles south.  Another stop on our trip, Iguassu Falls (IGR) is 650 miles north.  It borders with Brazil and Paraguay on the other side of the river.  If it is possible to visit Iguassu Falls from the Brazil side, which is more panoramic but farther away, without getting a visa for Brazil, that would be fantastic. 

Argentina highlights:

• Argentina arguably has the tastiest beef, the sexiest dance, the most immaculately dressed people, some of the cutest penguins, the highest peak and the most cosmopolitan city (Buenos Aires) in South America.
• Argentina remains among the most expensive countries on the continent and Buenos Aires one of the most expensive cities in the world.  Argentina has long had a fascination with the high life, and its prices reflect this.  Hotel and restaurant prices at the luxury end of the scale have continued to rise, even with declining Peso. 
• Argentina's main attractions are Buenos Aires, Iguazu Falls, Patagonia, cattle ranches, the Andes, desert canyons, historical sites, wineries, whale-watching at the Valdes Peninsula, skiing, nightlife, spectacular scenery, the Pampas, wildlife, fishing and casinos.  Beaches are merely adequate compared to those in Uruguay and Brazil.
• Buenos Aires, boasts myriad galleries, museums, parks and shops scattered throughout the city's many colorful neighborhoods.  Argentina's capital is considered a stylish city filled with tango clubs, flea markets and great restaurants.
• Heritage is Italian - Spanish
• ATMs connected to worldwide banking systems are widely available, and credit cards are widely accepted,
  - As the exchange rate has zoomed from 3 Pesos per USD to 17.5 per USD when we traveled, smart tourist industry - hotels, taxis, buses and national parks - all have jacked up prices to keep them the same in USD. 
• Tipping - Tip about 5% in restaurants if a service charge is included, 10% if no tip has been added.  Just round up the fare for taxi drivers,  Tip bellhops and concierges at hotels when warranted: A good rule of thumb is to tip in pesos what you would in dollars or euros at home.
• VAT (21%) - Foreigners on a tourist visa are exempt from this tax. To qualify for a tax exemption, tourists must present a valid passport and pay for the services rendered with a non-Argentine credit card or via bank transfer from another country.
  - This actually worked out fine - no hassles.  In one restaurant, paying cash (Pesos) was worth 10% discount.
• Buenos Aires has two airports. Ezeiza International Airport (EZE), officially called Ministro Pistarini, 32 miles southwest of the center of town, handles most of the international flights (phone 5480-2500). Jorge Newbery (AEP), also called Aeroparque, 2 miles northwest, right on the beach, handles mainly domestic flights. Phone 4576- 5300. http://www.aa2000.com.ar
  - our flight to Iguassu Falls (IGR) is from AEP, all others are from EZE.
  - .Manuel Tienda Leon airport shuttle between the two airports. The cost is approx. 255 Pesos per person.  Shuttles depart every 30 minutes, and the trip takes about 1.5 hours.
• Iguassu Falls (IGR) - airport is south of the town and falls.  Park entrance is about mid-way between the airport and the town.  December, January and February (summer months) are especially rainy and you may have cloudy skies, hot weather and high humidity: expect high temperatures around 90ºF (and lows in the mid 70s F).  In mid-November, we expected blue skies and agreeable temperatures, and fewer visitors.  Since it had rained for 4 days with thunderstorms just before we reached, and also rained Saturday morning (but cleared after that,) there was lots of water in the falls.  First day, it was difficult to see all the falls because of the water mist/sprays.  It was much clearer on the second day, yet still plenty of water.
  - General entry ticket is 500 pesos cash only.  There is an ATM machine at the park with 3000 peso limit.  If you have your ticket stamped on the first day before leaving, second day's entry is 50% off.  That worked well for us. 
• Ushuaia (USH) - Most people use Ushuaia (the world's southernmost city) on the Beagle Channel as a base: It's 6 miles west of the entrance to Tierra del Fuego National Park. Travelers can choose among ferry rides to Isla de los Lobos (sea lions), Isla de Pajaros (Bird Island), Martello Island (penguins), Bridges Island (seals and birds) and Martial Glacier (the glacier has a chairlift for skiers). Best time to visit the park during summer (December-February) or in March to see the fall foliage. Take along warm clothing any time of year, as the winds blow year-round.
  - Ushuaia's port is a common stopover for visits to Antarctica. The port itself, at Avenida Maipu 510, is wholly given over to commercial shipping.  Passengers disembarking there generally head straight for the city proper, as there are no tourist facilities at the port terminal itself. The city grew around a prison, whose prisoners helped to build the town and the foundation for the Tren del Fin del Mundo (End of the World Train), the southernmost railway in the world. The railway connects visitors to Tierra del Fuego National Park.
  - The city experiences misty and foggy conditions for much of the year, so rain protection is a necessity for visitors. Be aware that the city also experiences strong winds. Warm clothing is necessary even in summer months, when average high temperatures don't rise much above 47 F.
  - Our journey to Antarctica begins in Ushuaia, aboard the Ocean Nova and sail along the Beagle Channel towards Puerto Williams, Chile.
  - USH Airport is only 4 miles from the only port in town.  Metered taxi charged 140 pesos for 3 people with luggage.  Of course, opportunists will try to take advantage of that.  On the way back, a minivan wanted to charge $10 per person for 4 people on board.  We heard stories about how each of us paid a different fare to return back to the airport.
• Drake Passage - Sail towards Antarctica across the famous passage named in honor of Sir Francis Drake, the 16th century British explorer. As you sail en route to the South Shetland Islands, time is spent attending lectures and presentations.  With expert guides, watch for wildlife from the glass-enclosed lounge or from the outside decks - magnificent sea birds such as albatrosses and petrels, as well as different species of whales on their way south to Antarctica.  After crossing the Antarctic Convergence, the environment changes noticeably.  (Antarctic Convergence is a curve continuously encircling Antarctica, varying in latitude seasonally, where cold, northward-flowing Antarctic waters meet the relatively warmer waters of the sub-antarctic.)  This is the time to watch for the first icebergs and the first sight of Antarctic land.
  - We saw humpbacks on the way down to Antarctica and Orcas on the way back.  Birds followed our ship nearly the entire time.
  - Drake Passage lived up to its reputation as being rough ocean to pass where the Pacific and Atlantic oceans meet and the "fun" begins.  Of the 2 1/2 days it takes to cross the Drake, the second day in open waters is likely to be the worst - it was certainly for us.  40 Knot winds pounding the ship and waves 20 feet high - up to our windows on the 3rd deck, made the ship roll (sideways) for much of the time.  On-board doctor was handing out free motion sickness pills and almost demanding that everyone take them.  Some passengers - and many crew members - had patches behind their ears - which supposedly work as well.  Others had magnetic wrist bands that do the trick.  Regardless, only about 20% people showed up for breakfast next morning, about 50% for lunch.
  - I had not taken the pills and promptly had to use the Barf Bag after taking a bite from a dry toast.  The doctor ran over immediately and asked me to take tablets and lie down in the room.  Next day, I felt better.  Pills worked.  A lower dosage the next day (when the ocean was much calmer) and full dosage on the first day of return trip took care of the rest.  The pills however leave a horrible taste in your mouth, and make you drowsy.  Most of us slept most of the 2 days of Drake Passage each way.
  - Consider that our rites of passage, if you wish.  
• Antarctic Exploration - Cruise between the South Shetland Islands and the western coast of the Antarctic Peninsula, sailing along ice-filled fjords and among spectacular icebergs, while enjoying the company of seabirds, penguins, seals, and whales.  Each day, disembark by Zodiac boat and explore the landscape together with expert polar guides.  From the ship, enjoy spectacular vistas from the glass-enclosed lounge while sharing your daily adventures with fellow guests.  No journey is the same as flexibility is the key to success in Antarctica.  The Expedition Team sets the voyage route to take advantage of the ever-changing opportunities provided by Nature, crafting a unique and extraordinary experience each time.  While the exact itinerary changes with each expedition, you can explore several spots that offer the best possible overview of the varied Antarctic environment.  Antarctic cruise may include visits to sites such as Paulet Island, Hope Bay, Port Lockroy, Petermann Island, Paradise Bay, Deception Island, the Lemaire Channel, or many other magnificent places. 
  - We did 7 landings over 3 1/2 days, each with unique features and activities.  While penguins and seals were a common denominator everywhere, Glaciers, Icebergs, Ice Sheets, Polar Plunge and possibly active volcano were bonus features.  Too much snow/ice prevented us from going further South to any of the places named above.